October 20 - 9 years ago...

Hargeysa, Somaliland – 12 July, 2000 – I guess it’s natural to have a preconceived image of places whose names you have heard only in certain circumstances, and more often than not the reality bears little resemblance. Hargeysa is a mix: the dusty, gullied tracks that pass for streets and the rounded huts made of grainsack patchwork mixed with UNHCR blue tarps surrounded by thorn bush fencing are right out of the dream. But the new housing, well stocked shops, and pleasant temperature don’t fit. Nor do the smiles of the people and the general atmosphere of emerging well being. It is poor, and the bombed out buildings remain, but it is neither miserable nor squalid. If it were not for the ubiquitous plastic bags that blow and catch everywhere, it would almost be clean. Efforts to plant trees and flowers are numerous, though they have a tough future in the face of the wind which is constant, and the mouths of the goats who are everywhere.

Hargeysa sits at 1200 meters on either side of a river which exists only for a few hours at a time when it rains, and is otherwise dry wash. It is in the Oogo zone, a cooler highland which rises from the Guban or “burnt” area of the coast, about 2 hours south of Berbera. While it’s about 40° on the coast today, here it has been in the mid to high 20’s and quite pleasant with the breeze. There’s been an occasional sprinkle, but not enough to run the river.

Interpeace has a project going here, which has taken the form of a local NGO – The Somaliland Center for Peace and Development – which is responsible for implementing participatory action research in Somaliland (There is no Somalia - since 1991 Somaliland has been an independent country though not formally recognized. I did spot a huge Taiwanese flag flying over their “embassy”, and when I enquired my colleagues told me that there was apparently a mutual recognition treaty that was signed, which cost the Taiwanese five million dollars, but it was quickly unraveled once the check had been cashed and spent, and had not been renewed. Somaliland receives no international aid and has done what it has in term9s of rebuilding from the ashes virtually on its own.

In its first phase of research, the SCPD (staffed by Somalilanders from all parts of the country and representing different clans and political points of view) spent five months traveling around the country and engaging people at all levels of society and produced a ”Self-portrait of Somaliland”, an attempt to identify the key issues facing the people of the country. They then held a national conference to present the study, and to identify the key areas for further research and action. They chose four, and have now formed working groups around each, assigned a researcher to each, and are holding research workshops throughout the country in each area. The workshops invite people of all kinds to participate in the discussion, and the results will take the form of research reports which will be both fed back to all the participants, and shared with the Government, NGOs the international community etc. Sounds pretty academic – but they are also video taping it all, and using the video to cross-fertilize different area working groups and workshops, as well as to share with newcomers like me the reality of what they are doing. It is impressive. There is energy, and focus, and active engagement in these workshops that is amazing. And the organization and running of the workshops is well done and professional – under conditions that are extreme – everything has to be provided, and these are in places with no paved roads and no electricity. A tree may be the shade for a workshop, or an abandoned hospital. Exciting stuff, and an intro to Interpeace reality that is wonderful for me to have right off, even if it seemed awfully quick to be jumping into the fray (I started, officially on 1 July, and left Geneva on the 8th, and still have no contract…)

Somalilanders love to talk, and the mafresh, or afternoon qaat chewing session, is an integral part of the way things get accomplished here. It is also a major social issue/problem. Qaat is a plant brought in from Ethiopia which is chewed to produce a mild narcotic effect, supposedly like a combo of caffeine and a mild high. Groups of men get together in the afternoon for a “chew” which can last for hours and usually does. A bit like the hammam or the sauna, but very male, though women can participate on some occasions (several of my working afternoons have been “chats” where we sit in a “chatroom”, cushions all around the walls, tea, coke and water for each person, along with a bundle of Qaat for those who chew). It is very non-hierarchical, and where you can hear real discussion with no external patina – I wish I spoke Somali.

The hotel is clean, with good simple food and service; no hot water, but no mosquitoes, a trade-off I will take as malaria is prevalent here. Morning pancakes (more of a rolled crêpe with syrup poured over) are delicious, with just a touch of lemon added to the batter. Tea is served regularly – milky and sweet. Women all wear bright clothes, heads covered. Alcohol is illegal, but present in homes. There is no sense of insecurity, but you don’t wander around alone at night either (three weeks ago a German development aid worker was shot dead on the street, and a week ago the head of the presidential Guard was gunned down inside the presidential residence.) Driving is on the right, but so is the steering wheel (virtually all the vehicles are second-hand imports from Dubai) – very odd for me having just re-adjusted to European standards after two years in Dhaka.